How do you rewrite a complicated draft so it's readable for weaving on a table loom? Madelyn has a few suggestions to make your life so much easier.
First of all, whenever you cross a space-dyed warp with a weft (whether solid or space-dyed itself), if the weft shows at all, it will interrupt the stretches of solid color in the warp.
Is there anything wrong with putting on one warp, and using it to weave many different things?
If I want to weave a structure such as overshot, summer and winter, or a lace weave double wide for a tablecloth, what problems can I expect? I have just given away my large floor loom and will be using a 36” table loom for this.
When it comes time to tie on the warp threads at the front, I consistently get a diagonal line of threads, with the threads on one side being shorter than the other.
The most important principle about irregular sleying orders is to spread the threads as evenly as possible throughout the reed.
I read in Allen Fannin's book about how best to wind a bobbin. I started winding bobbins that way and my selvages are better.
I wove a scarf with rayon chenille warp and a silk/cotton weft. Now I have a chenille fringe that is raveling away. What would be the best way to avoid a "bare" fringe for this scarf?
How can you weave a project that calls for 7 treadles using a loom with only 6 treadles? Try changing your tie-up.
Is there anything I should be aware of when it comes to deflected doubleweave patterns using a wool that will full quite a bit after it is washed?